Stronger, Brighter Menopause Skin: Choosing the Best Vitamin C for Radiant, Resilient Skin

Vitamin C serums are one of the true staples of a great skincare routine and are considered one of the top three skincare ingredients you need to be using for protection, brightening and collagen production. Indeed, this wonderful, multipurpose antioxidant has been a key part of my skincare regimen for as long as I can remember, and for good reason.

But not all Vitamin C is created equal.

Depending on your skin type and goals, such as treating hyperpigmentation versus maintaining a healthy glow, the kind of Vitamin C you use matters more than you might think. Knowing which form of Vitamin C you're using can completely change your results — and, more importantly, how your skin reacts.

Used consistently, Vitamin C helps to:

✔ Brighten skin, even out skin tone

✔ Fade dark spots

✔ Boost collagen production

✔ Protect against environmental damage like pollution and UV exposure

It’s best applied in the morning, before sunscreen, to maximise its protective benefits against environmental stressors.

The Main Types of Vitamin C in Skincare

Vitamin C Type	Common Ingredient Names (what you'll see on labels)	Potency	Suitable for Sensitive Skin?	Notes
L-Ascorbic Acid	L-Ascorbic Acid	Very High	❌ No	The purest and strongest form. Fast results, but unstable and can irritate sensitive skin.
Ascorbyl Derivatives (Oil-soluble)	Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate	Moderate to High	✅ Yes	Oil-soluble, highly stable. Penetrates deeper layers of the skin with less irritation risk.
Ascorbate Derivatives (Water-soluble)	Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP), Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate (AAP), Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP), Ascorbyl Glucoside	Moderate	✅ Yes	Water-soluble and stabilised. Gentler, hydrating, and better for sensitive or breakout-prone skin.

A Closer Look at Each Type

L-Ascorbic Acid

• Best for: Quick brightening, fading pigmentation, and boosting collagen.

• Pros: Fast, powerful results.

• Cons: Easily oxidises (turns brown) and can cause redness or stinging in sensitive skin.

• Tip: Always store L-Ascorbic Acid serums in a dark, cool place and use them quickly after opening to maintain potency!

Ascorbyl Derivatives (Oil-soluble)

• Best for: Long-term anti-ageing benefits without the risk of surface irritation.

• Pros: Oil-based forms like Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate absorb deeply into the skin, are highly stable, and are gentle on sensitive skin.

• Cons: Being oil-based may not be suitable for oily skin types. These derivatives also tend to be more expensive but are an investment in deeper skin health and long-term benefits.

Ascorbate Derivatives (Water-soluble)

• Best for: Sensitive, acne-prone, or easily dehydrated skin.

• Pros: More stable, hydrating, and irritation-free compared to L-Ascorbic Acid. Ascorbyl Glucoside is a slow-release Vitamin C, making it gentle for long-term use.

• Cons: Results may be more gradual, especially for stubborn pigmentation.

• Note: Ascorbyl Glucoside is a water-soluble form that's stable and effective, but its brightening and anti-ageing effects tend to appear more slowly compared to L-Ascorbic Acid.

Sensitive Skin Tip 

If Vitamin C serums have ever made your skin tingle or turn red, look for derivatives like MAP, AAP, or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. These still deliver antioxidant power and brightening effects — just without the irritation.

My Top 3 Vitamin C Serum Picks (By Potency)💛 

✔️ Cosmetic Solutions Supreme CE Serum — L-Ascorbic Acid

✔️ Medik8 Tetra C Serum — Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

✔️ Advanced Clinicals Vitamin C Serum — Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate (AAP)

Dupe Tip: If you're chasing the most potent Vitamin C, Cosmetic Solutions Supreme CE Serum is an amazing dupe for the cult-favourite SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic Serum — both feature powerhouse L-Ascorbic Acid and Vitamin E, but at a much friendlier price tag.

Final Takeaway

When shopping for a Vitamin C serum, always check the ingredient list first, not just the marketing claims on the front of the bottle. "Vitamin C Serum" could refer to a variety of different derivatives, each with varying strengths and speeds of action. Even if you’re purchasing the purest and most potent form, L-Ascorbic Acid, it's important to note that formulations can differ in potency.

The general rule of thumb is that ingredients listed at the beginning of the list are present in the highest concentrations. So, if L-Ascorbic Acid appears near the top, you're likely getting a more potent formula. In contrast, derivatives that appear further down may be in lower concentrations, resulting in milder formulations. Always pay attention to where Vitamin C appears on the list to gauge how concentrated or diluted the serum might be.🍊